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Milan Mode

For fall 2008 Italian designers displayed a pragmatic approach to luxury. Fashion exuded an air of quiet refinement with austere glamour nestled ever so slightly between maxi-luxe accouterments and details. At Fendi, fur was put through a newly discovered technique of burnishing gold on the pelts. The 21st century technique produces illuminated opulent fur pieces speckled with shimmering gold highlights that unleashed a magnificent ray of light.

Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana

Fendi, Emporio Armani, Gianfranco Ferre

Marni, Gucci, Missoni

 

Moschino & Emilo Pucci

Photos Style.com/ Marcio Madeira

Ford Appeal

Tom Ford's latest ad campaign for his eponymous menswear line proves a leopard never changes his stripes, and Ford's ideal man is a sexy cat, indeed. Never one to shy away from controversy or the erotic display of the female or male body to hawk his wares. Lest we forget his Gucci days, where under his helm a G-logo was meticulously trimmed into a model's pubic hair. The popular euphemism, "sex sales" is a proven marketing model, but the product must also merit a satisfying intimate engagement. Without a doubt, Ford has that area covered. The Ford formula: fashion + sex + image= Success. And he's taken it all the way to the bank.

Style Re-Cap: London Times

British fashion royalty, Vivienne Westwood was the top headline for London Fashion Week and she didn’t disappoint. Westwood’s been in the fashion game for fifteen years and shows no sign of wear and tear. The fall collection for her secondary line, Red Label, proved her finger is still on the pulse. It was smoking and highly charged in true Westwood style. Pinstripe tailoring, sexy tartan get-ups, knits, cool coats rang with British punk glam appeal. Westwood’s bosom-hugging evening gowns could shake up any monarchy.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Burberry Prorsum designer Christopher Bailey piled on thick handcrafted luxe details with drool-worthy coats fashioned out of wispy shredded chiffon and elaborate appliqué. The silhouette was lean with sharp-cut trousers, structured jackets, sculpted knit blouses and knit beanie caps.

Burberry Prorsum

Allegra Hicks expanded a wee-bit on her highly successful ethic caftans with a concise collection of cocktail dresses and pantsuits.

Allegra Hicks

Kisa London. Kisa London’s autumn/winter 2008 collection was a mix of chubby knits, textures, and chic/sassy dresses.

Kisa London

Luella Bartley channeled her youthful school girl appeal into a rousing horror-show inspired collection. In between the goth and gore were the preppy classics she’s known for. Horror movies encircled the mind of Giles Deacon as well. His fall collection was vamp and camp with a “slasher” gown, puffed parkas, and cob-web knits. Eley Kishimoto's pop art print mini dresses where quirky-cute. 

Luella, Giles, Eley Kishimoto

Rodnik designers Philip Colbert and Richard Ascott blur the definition of designer with a conjecture of rock star dreams and fashion. Staging a mini-concert and fashion show in one with the duo on vocals came across as a bit gimmicky. Is it the making of a top fashion brand or the making of the making of the band? 

I’m with the band: Rodnik’s Fall 2008 collection

London’s New Generation designers didn’t disappoint. Louise Goldin showed a respectable collection of sci-fi patchwork sculpted dresses. Krystof Strozyna showcased structured white mini-dresses, while Todd Lynn hit all the right style notes with his masculine/feminine mystic that’s coolly chic and urbane. High-waisted trousers and sharp cut suits were a dichotomy of luxury, edginess, and modernity. Lynn’s pièce de résistance was the fluid single-breast jacket that fashioned to a dress and a deliciously trim-fit pantsuit with a glistening goat-hair fringed bolero. Meadham Kirchhoff’s début was promising with casually cool tailor pieces.

Britain’s New Talent: Louise Goldin, Krystof Strozyna, Todd Lynn, Medham Kirchhoff.

After the show, it’s the after party…

Burberry and Vanity Fair teamed up to host VF’s new exhibit Vanity Fair Portraits: Photographs 1913- 2008 at London’s National Portrait Gallery. Vivienne Westwood celebrated the launch of her book Opus at the Serpertine Gallery.

Burberry Creative Director Christopher Bailey and actress Emma Watson.; Cuba Gooding Jr. and Naomi Campbell; Mario Testino & Bianca Jagger. Photo courtesy Burberry

Vivienne Rules: Westwood in her book, Opus. Helena Bonham Carter and Tim Burton.

Todd Lynn and Kisa London toasted their post-fashion show jubilations at MAYA, London’s nightspot of choice for the fashion fabulous and jet-set. Kisa held court into the wee hours with guest Camilla Al Fayad, Lilly Donalson, Natalia Vadionova, Dan MacMillian, Anouk Lepere, and an ultra-late Naomi Campbell who missed out on the swerving beats of Paris-based DJ Club NEO.

Lynn’s affair was no-less camp with model-of-the-moment Agyness Deyn tearing up the dance floor with Immodesty Blaize. The man of the night, Todd Lynn, was relaxed after his well-received fall presentation with cameras rolling for Lynn’s up-coming documentary scooping the celebrity scene of Lisa Moorish, Mark Ronson, Sandi Thom, and Lorna May Wadsworth.

Camilla al Fayed & Anouk Lepere, Gaye McDonald, Kelly Brook. Photo credit: Rob Lowe

(Clockwise) Lisa Moorish, Immodsty Blaize, Carl Barat (Dirty Pretty Things), Todd Lynn & Agyness Deyn. Photo credit: Rob Lowe

Lanvin Amour

Alber Elbaz introduced a petite and lovely collection of bridal dresses during his Spring/Summer 2008 collection.  Elbaz removed the mega puffs of tulle and Cinderella gowns in favor of a beaded tunic dress and a delicately tiered mini dress as the modern look of love. The dresses are so demurely sexy I'm compelled to say, " I do!"

Martine Rockz

Entomology Rockz is new collection of accessories designed and launched by Martine Haddad, Lebanese jewellery artist living and working in Dubai. “I wanted to create something new, different, shocking and daring. Something that would make people stop and stare,” says Haddad.

As its name suggests, the entire collection is made up of different kinds of insects, designed with beautiful precious stones set in 18k white or yellow gold. Each piece is handmade with special attention to detail. Some parts move, giving it a more realistic look. The collection is made up of six types of insects: Ants, Dragonflies, Centipedes, Beetles, and Scarabs and of course Spiders.

“What inspired me? I’ve had a phobia for insects ever since I was a child. Of course many others share the same phobia. I decided to take something negative and turn it into something positively stunning,” she says. “It’s a new way at looking at insects, their purpose in this planet, but to most people, they’re only there to ruin our day.”

Of course some people see the collection and feel disturbed as they just see insects, but most people who saw the collection gave a positive feedback, appreciating the littlest details in each piece. “I think in due time everyone will see what I wanted them to see in each piece. Nature is not only about flowers and butterflies,” she insists.

- Nadine Fares Kahil

www.martinerockz.com

Photo credits: (top left) Jewellery designer Martine Haddad strikes a pose in one of her designs. (l to r) Ant necklace, Beetle necklace, Centipede necklace, and Dragonfly necklace.

Chloé In A Bottle

Chloé's newly unveiled signature scent is fresh and feminine with notes of lychee, rose, cedar, peony, and freesia. The powdery floral bouquet perfectly captures the allure and individuality of the Chloé woman. Eau de parfum, 2.5 oz. ($110), 1.7 oz. ($85).

Stella McCartney for LeSportsac

Stella McCartney’s on a roll with successful designer collaborations with Adidas, H&M, and Barneys. You can now add LeSportsac to the growing list. McCartney ‘s 17-piece, limited edition collection with the chic nylon handbag, luggage, and accessories firm complements the lifestyles of stylish young women, yet functional enough for the modern Mama, and your little “Mini Me” fashionistas in training. Hot items are the Carry All Tote a multi-use sporty-feminine bag with drawstring and bellowed pockets; the Small Bowling Bag is the perfect carry-on bag loaded with zippers and pockets; the Mum Tote takes today’s busy mummies from the boardroom to changing room with enough space to tote a laptop and the included changing pad, insulated interior pockets for baby bottles, and a removable cosmetic bag; the adorable Bunny Rucksack will delight the heart of a child (and the child at heart) with enough room for kid essentials (Playstation, crayons, puzzles, and mini books). The collection comes in the kaleidoscopic “Posh print”, “Pop print”, and McCartney’s signature hues of dusty rose and gray quilted fabric. Available at LeSportsac stores and online.

Carried Away In Style: (top left) LeSportsac Kid Case ($120); Small Camera Bag ($250); Carry All Tote ($325); Bunny Rucksack ($150); and Small Bowling Bag ($350).

London's Calling

London fashion is regarded as experimental, avant garde, artistic, and underground. For fall 2008, British designers are living up to their reputations in fine display.

Amanda Wakeley

Biba

Christopher Kane

 

Duro Olowu

 

Jasper Conran

 

John Rocha

 

Mario Schwab

 

Sinha-Stanic

Image credit: Elle.com

New York State of Mind

The New York collections commenced last week and our editors can't wait to get a style bite out of the chicest fall looks. Here's a recap of what's in store next season and the hot trends from New York.

Suit Appeal: Calvin Klein, Donna Karen, Catherine Malandrino.

Arts & Crafts: Derek Lam, Matthew Williamson, Narciso Rodriguez.

Bow Tied: Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Bill Blass.

Fold Away: Proenza Schouler, Marchesa, Donna Karen.

Glamorous Life: Proenza Schouler, L’Wren Scott, Ralph Lauren.

Image credit: Style.com

Secret Shopping Society

Fans of luxury goods are clamoring for Ideeli.com. The new website offers high-end handbags and accessories at 50 to 90 percent off (although some of the loot is last season, it’s been cherry-picked by editors with über discriminating taste). You must be invited by an existing member to join this exclusive shopping clique; access is free and you’ll receive emails to alert you when the next batch of Jimmy Choo or Zac Posen bags go on sale, or when they’re generously given away for free. For $7.99 per month, connoisseurs can spree an hour before everyone else. On your mark, get set…..shop!         - Stephanie Simons

Bag It! Elisa Atheniense Amazon Bucket Bag, $270; Kotur Fane Ayers Clutch, $265.    www.ideeli.com